242 search results for "effects"

Multiple exposures in-camera: how to get long-exposure effects in bright light

We often sing the praises of camera filters and the creative advantages they offer photographers, but depending on the make and model of your camera, you don’t always need a filter. Below we’ll show you a really simple technique for making multiple exposures in-camera – a great alternative for making long-exposure effects in bright sunlight.

Note: we used a Nikon D300s, and all current Nikon DSLRs have an Image Overlay option in the Retouch menu. If you have a pro Nikon DSLR from the D300s up you can set the camera up to shoot and combine multiple exposures automatically. We’ll show you how to do it both ways in this tutorial. Other camera brands, like Canon, Olympus and Pentax, also boast their own version of this feature with very similar processes.

Multiple exposures in-camera: how to get long-exposure effects in bright light

Landscape photographers love to use long exposures because this creates a feeling of movement in an otherwise static scene.

Waterfalls and rivers turn into a smooth, milky blur, and softly waving grass and leaves create a much more atmospheric image than frozen, static details.

To capture that kind of blur you need long exposures of half a second or more, and in bright daylight that’s just not possible. Your shots will all be over-exposed.

Even if you set your camera to its minimum ISO and smallest lens aperture, you’re still likely to get shutter speeds between 1/20 sec and 1/60 sec, which just isn’t slow enough to create these blur effects.

That’s why landscape photographers use ND (‘neutral density’) filters. These are pieces of semi-opaque plastic or glass that go over the front of the lens, usually in a holder. They cut down the light passing through the lens, which means you can use longer exposures without overexposing the picture.

What if you don’t have an ND filter, or you own one but don’t have it with you? Try this really clever technique, which achieves a similar result using multiple exposures instead.

With regular long exposures, the shutter stays open all the time the picture’s being taken. With our technique, though, you take a series of shorter exposures and then merge them together.

A shutter speed of 1/20 sec to 1/60 sec isn’t enough to blur the falling water on its own, but when you combine a series of frames shot at that sort of speed, the movement of the water between the frames creates a very similar blurring effect in the final photograph.

The result isn’t exactly the same as you’d get from a genuine long exposure, but if you get the settings right it’s surprising how close it can be.

And the great thing about it is that you don’t need any special equipment to create this sort of image. All you need is your camera, a tripod and a remote release.

Slow shutter speeds are best
You need to use the slowest possible shutter speed even with this multiple-exposure technique. If you don’t, the water will take on a ‘sparkly’ appearance because the detail in each frame is frozen.

Slow shutter speeds are best: 1/30sec

1/30sec

Slow shutter speeds are best: 1/800sec

1/800sec

You can see the difference in these two multiple-exposure images. In the first, the shutter speed was 1/800 sec, in the second it was 1/30 sec.

PAGE 1: Why use in-camera multiple exposures
PAGE 2: How to make multiple exposures in-camera
PAGE 3: Adjusting exposure for perfect results

READ MORE

10 common exposure problems every photographer faces (and how to fix them)
Common mistakes at every shutter speed (and the best settings to use)
49 awesome photography tips and time savers
Master your camera’s autofocus: which AF points to use and when to use them

[syndicated from Digital Camera World]

Lighting effects: how to use Photoshop to add atmosphere to outdoor portraits

In this tutorial we show you how a few simple Photoshop effects using Lens Flare filters can add romantic lighting to your outdoor portraits.

Lighting effects: how to use Photoshop filters to add atmosphere to outdoor portraits

Shooting into the light is a great way to create a variety of different effects, and while silhouettes are an obvious choice and easy to shoot, adding a bit of lens flare can have an equally dramatic effect.

As always, there’s a Photoshop filter that can not only apply the effect, but can also be adjusted to fit and blend in with your image ?with seamless results.

Here we are going to show you how to quickly enhance a portrait so colour, light and tone reflect that of an image shot into the light, before adding a touch of lens flare to give a final flourish to the effect.

How to enhance outdoor portraits with Photoshop Lens Flare effects

How to enhance outdoor portraits with Photoshop Lens Flare effects: step 1

01 Portrait retouching
Select the Patch tool and draw under the darkness of the left eye. Keep your finger held on the mouse button drag and release the selection onto the cheek. Use the same technique to remove the shadow from the nose. Use the Spot Healing Brush to remove spots and blemishes.

 

How to enhance outdoor portraits with Photoshop Lens Flare effects: step 2

02 Warm the skin tones
Create a new Curves Adjustment Layer. Select Red from channel drop-down. Warm skin tones by making a single point with Input value of 126. Select Blue channel. Add point near centre in bottom right quarter with Output value of 119 and Input of 139, click OK. Drop layer Opacity to 38%.

 

How to enhance outdoor portraits with Photoshop Lens Flare effects: step 3

03 Lighten the mid-tones
Create a new Levels Adjustment Layer. Increase mid-tone slider to 1.24.lick OK. From Layer Options select Flatten Image. From the top menu bar choose Filters>Render >Lens Flare. At the bottom of window make sure default option of Lens Type 50-300mm is selected.

 

How to enhance outdoor portraits with Photoshop Lens Flare effects: step 4

04 Adding Lens Flare
In the top of the window’s preview, move flare preview from the centre of the image to top right, the lens flare will cast a direction diagonally to the bottom left. Use the brightness slider to 162 to increase flare’s intensity. Adjust position of the preview if needed, click OK to finish.

PAGE 1: How to enhance outdoor portraits with Photoshop Lens Flare effects
PAGE 2: Other Lens Flare Photoshop effects
PAGE 3: Other uses for the Photoshop Lens Flare filter

READ MORE

10 common portrait photography mistakes (and how to avoid them)
Photoshop Curves Tool: 6 techniques every photographer must know
Raw Editing: what you need to know about white balance correction
3 selective adjustment tools your raw files can’t live without
Photoshop Levels Tool: 6 tricks all the pros use

[syndicated from Digital Camera World]

Beach photography: how to add creative effects in-camera and on the computer

In the final instalment of our Shoot Like A Pro series on improving your beach photography we suggest some quick and easy creative effects you can achieve both in-camera and on the computer to enhance your coastal portfolio.

Beach photography: tips for adding creative effects in-camera and on the computer

Image by Chris Rutter

If the range of subjects at the beach isn’t enough to get your creativity flowing there are plenty of special effects you can use to get interesting and arresting coastal shots.

Some, such as using long shutter speeds, are impossible to recreate after you’ve shot them, but even with the ones that rely on software manipulation it pays to think about the effect you want before you fire the shutter.

While you can apply some effects to photos that you’ve already taken, it’s often an integral part of the whole creative process rather than a quick fix for poor images, so take a look at these techniques, think about which will suit the type of images that you’re going to shoot, and give them a try.

Tips for adding creative effects to your beach photography

Slow shutter speeds
From huge waves crashing on rocky shores to the gentle swell lapping onto a sandy beach, the action of the sea is perfect for experimenting with shutter speeds for visual effect.

One of the classic effects is to use a slow shutter speed to record the moving water as a dreamy blur, such as in our featured photo at the top of this page.

The shutter speed required for a ‘milky water’ effect will depend on the amount of movement of the water, but as a general rule you’ll be looking at an exposure of at least a second.

For the really ethereal look where the water is reduced to a silky smooth texture you’ll need a shutter speed of 15 seconds or more.

This is easy if you shoot after the sun has set or before dawn, but you can also use a strong neutral density filter such as the Lee BIG Stopper or Hoya NDx400 to allow you to get these shutter speeds in brighter conditions.

Mastering HDR
It can be tricky to capture the huge range of brightness from the sky, sand and water of a typical beach scene.

But there’s a technique known as high dynamic range photography that enables you to get detail in the brightest highlights and the darkest shadows in a single image.

To use this technique you need to shoot at least three images with different exposure settings, so you need to have the camera on a steady tripod to ensure that the images are perfectly aligned.

These images are then combined using the ‘Merge to HDR’ function in Photoshop or by using specialist HDR software such as Photomatix from HDRsoft.

It’s easy to overdo the effect, though, so take your time using the settings in the software to avoid an over-processed look in your final image.

This is easily identified by strong haloes around the details in the image, especially where there’s a large change from highlights to shadows.

 

Tips for adding creative effects to your beach photography

Image by Chris Rutter

Black and white
The graphic nature of many coastal landscapes is ideal for black-and-white images.

When shooting, look for strong composition elements such as rocky headlands or lead-in lines and interesting textures in the sand, sea and rocks.

Abstract concepts
The textures and shapes you can find in the sand, rocks and shells on almost any shore make perfect subjects for abstract images.

Another option is to shoot just the sea or sky, omitting any other detail or subject to create an image that relies simply on colour for its impact.

 

Tips for adding creative effects to your beach photography: silhouettes

Image by Antonio Arcos / Getty

Silhouettes and contre-jour
The clear, open skies of the coastal landscape are ideal for silhouettes and contre-jour shooting.

It’s pretty easy to achieve silhouettes – all you need to do is position the subject between you and the light, then expose for the background.

Modern multi-segment metering systems will often try to compensate for this, so set centre-weighted metering on your DSLR and use a stop or two of negative exposure compensation to make sure the subject stays completely dark.

Graduated neutral density filters
Unless you’re a Photoshop wizard, graduated neutral density filters, or ND grad filters, are essential for ensuring balanced exposures when the sky is much brighter than the landscape (which is inevitable when shooting sunrises or sunsets).

Graduated neutral density filters basically comprise a sheet of glass or resin that’s clear at the bottom and shaded at the top – this enables you to expose for the foreground as normal through the clear part of the filter and position the shaded top half so that it sits just above the horizon.

The shaded part will darken the bright sky by a set number of stops to give you a more balanced exposure.

PAGE 1: How to add creative effects to your beach photography
PAGE 2: How to use a tripod at the beach

READ MORE

Digital camera effects from A-Z
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Master your camera’s autofocus: which AF points to use and when to use them
Famous Photographers: 225 tips to inspire you

[syndicated from Digital Camera World]

Freebie: 8 Special Effects for Photos

Special FX

The free actions include these effects:

  • Clarity 16px
  • Two-Strip Red/Teal
  • Harris Shutter Horizontal Shift
  • Dot Grid 16px
  • Pencil Sketch
  • Stained Glass 32px
  • Digital Display 8px
  • 4 Point Star Flare 100px

The pro version includes all of the

  • Clarity (16px, 32px, 64px, and 128px)
  • Two-Strip (Red/Teal, Purple/Green, and Yellow/Blue)
  • Harris Shutter (Horizontal Shift, Vertical Shift, Horizontal Stretch, Vertical Stretch, and Zoom)
  • Dot Grid (16px, 32px, 64px, and 128px)
  • Rounded Square Grid (16px, 32px, 64px, and 128px)
  • Halftone Popart (1px, 2px, 4px, and 8px)
  • Pencil Sketch (Regular and Soft)
  • Stained Glass (32px, 64px, 128px, and 256px)
  • Digital Display (8px, 16px, 32px, and 64px)
  • 4 Point Star Flare (100px, 200px, 400px, and 800px)
  • 8 Point Star Flare (100px, 200px, 400px, and 800px)

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The Harris Shutter effect is a creative way to turn your photos into B&W with a nice color misalignment effect.

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Digital display turns your photo into a neon pixel art.

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Some other effects are dot grid and pencil sketch. The dot grid effect pixelates your photos with rounded circles and the pencil sketch effect gives your photos a hand-drawn pencil sketch effect.

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Download the Special FX Photoshop Actions

Standard Edition

Photoshop/Elements Video Tutorial: 3 Retro Photo Effects

Give your photos a nostalgic look with these three retro photo effects! This tutorial will show you how to create three photo effects using professional non-destructive editing techniques. You’ll learn the Photoshop recipes for creating a printed photo look, a photo effect very similar to the popular Instagram Nashville effect, and a warm nostalgic effect that can give your photos a warm sunset color effect.

Graffi’s Photo Effects Image Galleries

Below are some image galleries featuring some of Graffi’s images created using the Effects Packs for Photoshop Elements, all of which can be found here.

Graffi’s Photo Lab


Graffi’s Glam Photo


Graffi’s Focal Point Action Set


Graffi’s Hipster Action Set


Graffi’s Hipster Light Leaks Action Set


Graffi’s Photo Filters