Jesonis|Photography has added a photo to the pool:
1 AB 1600 w/ Large Soft Box camera left
[from Graffi’s That Retro Lo-Fi Look group on Flickr]
With the dawning of the iPhone, a whole new age of photography arrived: the iPhoneography era. Having a camera built into your phone makes it easy to take pictures on the fly.
The sheer size of a DSLR makes it less portable and convenient than a phone, which most people have on them at all times. With all the benefits and fun that come with these new smartphones, people everywhere are starting to play with iPhone photography. Here are just a few tips to help make the most of your iPhone photos:
chilledvondub has added a photo to the pool:
Elmarit 24mm f/2.8
Heres a quick little test snap from my new Leica. I needed a compact for general use and travel and always fancied a Leica so killed 2 birds with one little compact – the X1.
[from Graffi’s That Retro Lo-Fi Look group on Flickr]
Layer masks work with black, white and grey to shield away or show parts of a layer. Press Cmd/Ctrl+I to inverse the mask. For solid white masks, this will turn them to solid black, which is another way to hide them.
Just use the Brush tool to edit a mask (as opposed to switching between Brush, Eraser, Brush) by setting the Foreground colour to black and the Background colour to white. Then press ‘X’ while editing a mask to switch between adding and removing parts. This way you only have to set up the Brush tool.
Masks can be hidden by Shift-clicking on their thumbnails in the Layers palettes. This is indicated by a red cross when they’ve been switched off.
Masks can be softened gradually and in a controlled way by applying the Gaussian Blur filter to them. Be sure to highlight the mask first by clicking on it in the Layers palette. Start with a 0.5px Radius in the Gaussian Blur filter. Apply the Gaussian Blur in 0.5px increments to build up softness.
Layer masks are quite small in the palette and it can be difficult to see exactly what’s happening. Press Opt/Alt and click on a layer mask to reveal the mask on the actual canvas for the bigger picture. From here, the Brush or Eraser tools can be used to edit this.
[this post syndicated from Photoshop Daily]
When you’re shooting winter landscape photography, the window of opportunity for good weather and light is much narrower. In this tutorial we’ll show you everything you need to know before, during and after your winter shoot.
Careful planning is a must for winter landscape photography. Keep a close eye on the forecasts, and think about what time of day you’ll be shooting.
As we wanted to capture a cool wintry scene we avoided the golden hours, so we shot early in the morning when the light was more neutral, but before the sun got too high so the light wasn’t flat, so that we could capture a wider range of tones and some interesting shadow detail.
For this winter landscape tutorial we photographed a lone tree in Dartmoor – a strong focal point makes for a great landscape shot, and a gnarly old tree will really stand out against a stark wintry backdrop.
While it can take years to master the camera techniques you need to take amazing images, whatever your skill level and whatever you choose to shoot, it often pays to keep things simple. In our first new Shoot Like A Pro series of the new year we’ve put together 10 essential camera techniques every photographer should master. This week we start with taking control of focus.
From focusing and photo composition to white balance and lighting, this straightforward guide should cement your basic shooting skills, rid you of bad photo habits, and leave you to concentrate on simply getting better images.
When trying out these techniques it’s often recognising what could go wrong that will help you avoid making the same mistakes over and over again.
So with that in mind, we’ve also included handy examples of common problems and mistakes that can happen to anyone, whatever their experience, and how best to correct them.
But don’t be afraid of making mistakes; it’s how everyone learns a new skill.
Leave your camera to its own devices and it will focus using the central focus point. While this will produce sharp images in many situations, for more creative photography it’s better to take some control over the focus point.
Your chosen subject won’t always be in the centre of the frame, after all.
So the first skill you need to master is how to get your camera to focus on exactly the point that you want to be sharp.
Your camera has a number of focus points spread across the frame – you can see them through the viewfinder – and these offer an excellent solution for focusing on off-centre subjects.
You’ll need to set your camera to its single-point autofocus mode, rather than the multiple or automatic selection.
The exact procedure for selecting individual focus points (and the number available) varies according to your camera, but generally on Canon models you have to press the AF point selection button, then rotate the input dial or use the selector on the rear of the camera.
Look through the viewfinder as you do so, and you’ll see the active AF point (in red) move around the frame.
On most Nikon SLRs, once you’ve selected single-point autofocus you simply use the four-way controller on the back of the camera to highlight a different AF point.
The main downside to using the outer focus points on many cameras is that they aren’t as sensitive as those in the centre of the frame.
This means that they can struggle to focus in low light, if the subject is low contrast or you are using a lens with a maximum aperture of f/5.6 or narrower.
You may also find that there isn’t a focus point exactly where you want the camera to focus.
In both cases you can manually focus the lens, or use a technique known as focus lock, where you highlight the subject with the active AF point and then half-press the shutter release to lock the focus distance before reframing the shot.
24 camera features every beginner photographer must memorise
Learn photography: classic tips and tutorials for shooting any subject
7 beginner photography tutorials that can still improve your photography
Photography for beginners: 6 reasons you’re smarter than your camera
2014 Predictions: new camera technology we can expect in the new year
[syndicated from Digital Camera World]
Ever wondered how professional photographers achieve such lush, vibrant colours and that magical “atmosphere” in their images? BAM – they use a polarizing filter or “polarizer”! I could never have achieved the shot above without a polarizer.
Who would have thought that just one slice of wafer thin glass slapped on the front of your lens could transform your photographs from “meh” to “woah” with just a quick turn of the hand?
You MUST Have a Polarizer!
As a landscape photographer I won’t go anywhere without at least a couple of polarizers in my bag of goodies. My wife loves them too because she never has to ask me what I want for Christmas, the answer is always “a polarizer please”.
If you read my post back in September about Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS), you know that I’m a firm believer in making smart choices about photography-related expenditures. It’s so easy to get hypnotized by all of the shiny new trinkets and pieces of equipment that if you aren’t careful you’ll find yourself at the bottom of the rabbit hole with lots of great gear, but little else to show for it. That being said, if you are one of those lucky individuals who just got their first DSLR over the holidays, there are seven accessories which should be at the top of your new wish list. I usually hesitate to use words like “essential,” but sometimes it’s the little things that pack the biggest punch.
[post syndicated from DIY Photography Net]
As a budding photographer, it’s important you learn to identify what makes a great photo and even what makes a bad one too. In this article, we’re going to talk about the most important tips that will help you become a better photographer regardless of how much photography experience you have.
originally from DigitalRev